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October 30, 2011 / KristenMakes

After the Chart.

Hey there KAL-ers!  Thanks so much for the congratulations on my new job, you are so great!  And also a huge thanks for responding to the check-in, it is really good to know where everyone is.  I owe everyone a huge apology for dropping the ball in the Flickr group.  I just saw a few threads of questions that I hadn’t responded to.  I’ve had a bit of log-in difficulties with yahoo/flickr: I deleted my Yahoo account when it got hacked (I never used it anyway) and neglected to first direct my Flickr login to my Gmail account so now I can’t get in!  I’ve been dealing with the help centre but things are moving slowly.  So I ended up making a new account in the meantime, so you can see me on Flickr under username kristenorme.  Excuses aside, I should have been better about paying attention to your queries and discussions, but you guys are great it discussing and figuring things out when your Knitter/KALhoster is AWOL!  Anyway, I’m back on it in Flickr so feel free to continue posting you Questions there, or email me of course (kristenmakes@gmail.com)!

OK, back to our Cadence.   So most of us have completed or almost completed the lace chart, and some have even continued beyond the chart to knitting even with the sleeve/body increase rounds!  I’m going to talk a little bit about how to do that if you haven’t started that task already, and then move on later in the post to separating the sleeves from the body (it’s not as scary as it sounds!).

Alright, now you already have the chart from the Lace post (if not, click the link to the lace post and find the Excel chart download link, called “chart_all sizes”).  Now after you have completed the LACE, when you have the Excel chart open to the tab that is your correct size, scroll right till you see this:

Now how you can use this chart to your benefit is to tick off every round as you complete it (as I have done, above).  One the numbered rounds where there is no increase, Knit every stitch and tick off the number as you complete the round.  On rounds where there is a Body or Sleeve increase (consult the pattern or the Lace Post on how to do an increase round) follow accordingly, increasing as stated in either the sleeve or body.  This chart (derived from the pattern itself) tells you how to evenly space your increases according to your size.

Before moving on, though, here is a close-up of what my sleeve increases look like (I did the size S, in which there are no body increases):

sleeve increases
If you are having trouble reading where the increases are in that photograph, I’ve dissected it for you:
reading your increasesYes, I did forget an increase there!  Whoops!

Now a few of you have mentioned your increasing occurring at different times than the pattern suggests (you renegade pattern deviaters!).  That can be fine, I just recommend trying the jumper on as you go to ensure that it still fits.  You can do that by placing half the stitches onto a spare circular needle or waste yarn and pop it over your head (which really you should be doing anyway).

This is what mine looked like when I completed all my Sleeve and Body increases:

increasing sleeves and body

You want to make sure that the sleeves fit comfortably with enough ease to move and that the armhole is low enough that the underarm will be comfortable for you.  Remember usually with jumpers you may wear one or two layers underneath, so ease and roominess are important.  If you do not think there is enough armhole depth, knit a few more rounds and try it on again until you are happy with it.  You can pinch the fabric together under your arms to simulate what it will feel like, but even then your fingers will be in the way, so it is just a guide.  Now, if you feel, when pinching, that the sleeves are too tight or the body is too tight you can knit a few more rounds and insert a few more increase rounds in there, but only if you need more armhole depth too.  If the armhole depth is fine, but the sleeves and body are too tight, you can fix that in the next step, when you are separating the body from the sleeves.  Once you are happy with the fit (or you plan to adjust the fit in the next step, note that the pattern also specifies how many more rounds to complete before separating the sleeves from the body so be sure to complete those rounds:

All Sizes:


When all increase rounds for both sleeves and body have been worked, there will be 186[214, 230, 254, 278, 302, 326] sts: 35[39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 61] sts for each sleeve, and 58[68, 72, 80, 88, 96, 102] sts each for front and back.

K 2[1, 0, 4, 0, 4, 1] rounds.

OK, so the next step is to separate the sleeves from the body.  We are going from having all our stitches on one needle to having our stitches separated into 3 sections:

Sleeve Separation

The pattern explains this step (please read the whole section before proceeding):

Divide Sleeves From Body:
Next Round: K to first marker, remove marker, place next 35[39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 61] sts (all sts to second marker) on stitch holder or waste yarn, leaving marker, in place; k all sts to third marker, remove marker, place last 35[39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 61] sts on stitch holder or waste yarn, leaving end-of-round marker in place; join to continue working in the round. 116[136, 144, 160, 176, 192, 204] sts.

I’ve shown this step in pictures for you:

If you need to add more ease to the sleeves and body, it can be done in step 3:  before bringing the yarn across to the next body portion, remove the marker, use the yarn to Cast-On 1, 2 or 3 stitches (depending on how much ease you want to add, 1 st for a little, 3 for a lot), place the marker, Cast-On the same number of stitches (1, 2 or 3 – this is so that you have added an even amount of ease to both body portions), and continue on to knitting the next body portion.  Later on, when you are knitting the sleeves, you can Cast-on in the the same manner (or you can Pick up and Knit) the same number of stitches you added to the body so that you have added the same amount of ease to the sleeves as the body.  Keeping the amount of ease added to the body & sleeves the same ensures a nice even underarm.

Now the rest of the pattern should be a breeze compared to everything you’ve just done!  All that is left is knitting the body according to the pattern, and the sleeves.  You can attempt the next step alone of course, but the body and sleeves will be the subject of the next KAL post.  I have decided that for my Cadence, I hope to have enough yarn for a longer, tunic-y jumper so I will knit the sleeves first, so that all the yarn that is leftover can go to making to body as long as the yarn I have allows.  The pattern goes on to the body next, but it really does not matter which you do first.

Best of luck to you!  Let me know if you have any questions or problems, you guys are AMAZING for getting this far – huge pats on the back to you, and cake and tea for rewards!

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13 Comments

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  1. Suzy / Oct 30 2011 7:06 pm

    Thanks for posting the pictures of your increases…they have given me reassurance that I needed. Although I’m somewhat critical of my own work, I realize that my increases aren’t too horrible and nobody will really notice anyway (well, hopefully they won’t)! I have forged ahead and am now ready for the body decreases. I tried it on and it looks good…and hubby thinks I’m a rock star for cranking this out so quickly! I’ll take that as a win 🙂

  2. Becky / Oct 30 2011 8:42 pm

    Kristin,

    When you get a moment, could you take a look at the Flickr page? I just uploaded 3 pictures– I was working on the last row of the chart this afternoon, and I discovered that two of my diamonds are pretty messed up, several rows back. I tried to fix one of them vertically (I have a book of knit fixes and was able to use this method on a few other knitted projects, but I think on this one it just made things worse), didn’t touch the second. I also uploaded a picture of what the rest of the diamonds look like for comparison. Do you think this is something I can fix without unraveling the entire last several rows? And if I do need to unravel, do you have any suggestions for keeping track of where I am in it so I don’t have to start completely over?

  3. Lori / Oct 31 2011 10:56 am

    Well, what do you know? I am at almost exactly the same point in my sweater as you were in yours (at least in the pics)…hope to get a little further today, I got sidetracked yesterday knitting up a cute, fast cowl for a friend. 😉 (This is a fantastic knit: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/butLori/wham-bam-thank-you-lamb-neckwarmer even in icky yarn.)

    You can see my sweater at: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/butLori/cadence-pullover

  4. KristenMakes / Oct 31 2011 4:41 pm

    @Becky, thanks for loading those pictures, having a visual really helps. I wonder if maybe you accidentally skipped a row in the chart, because the swatch picture you uploaded is fine, which tells me you are understanding the chart fine.

    The thing about knitting is you have to figure out whether each mistake you make is something you can live with or would bother you enough that it ought to be fixed. And fixing mistakes vertically is great and do-able with stockinette stitch, but verrrrrry tricky with lace knitting (all the YO’s and decreases can be a mess to get through!). In this case, it seems that the best option is to rip back to where you went wrong. I’ve been there, my husband’s jumper was ripped out from neckline to armhole THREE times before getting it right. But it is worth the heartache because in the end you will have a beautiful garment!

    Now for ripping out you could try to locate a specific row before the mistake, thread a darning needle with waste yarn, and weave it through the stitches so that the are held in place when you rip back. The idea is similar to lifelines, but it is more like an afterthought lifeline – you can find an example of someone doing it to stockinette stitch here and try it out yourself. Just rip out slowly and carefully and pay attention to the stitches as you are putting them back on the needle. If you want to try and practice with another lace swatch, that might help too.

    The nice thing about lace it that you can see the stitches from the row below feeding into each other in their sloped lines. So if you see a sloping line out of place, you know something is amiss. Look at each diamond closely as you are doing it, and so long as it is correct, it will help inform your next row as far as decrease placement. However, recognising this comes more with practise than naturally. I think you’ve done a great job so far, all knitters have been in your place before! It is a difficult experience but it makes us better knitters! I hope this helps, do let me know if you are still struggling! Best of luck! xx KO

  5. KristenMakes / Oct 31 2011 4:42 pm

    @Suzy – great job! I’m so glad you are happy with it, and you are so right about nobody noticing! And well done, hubby, for recognising a rock star when he sees it – he is absolutely right! Knitting baffles my husband; he jokes its witchcraft 😉

  6. Becky / Oct 31 2011 11:39 pm

    Thanks again for the quick response (and for forwarding it to my email!) My update is that your suggestion to use the emergency lifeline thing worked really well (except for all of the places where I had the wrong row on the lifeline, but that’s not your fault.) In the end, I had to rip it back to row 14 of the chart, but I just re-knit #15 and it looks like everything’s where it’s supposed to be so far. I’ll get caught up to be ready for this post as quickly as I can!

    p.s. Does blocking generally shrink things down a bit? While I was sticking waste yarn in there anyway, I went ahead and tried it on, and it seems like the neckline is super-loose. Like nearly off-the-shoulder loose. I think the circular needle might have stretched it out a bit by the time I got to the increases. (My yarn is an acrylic/alpaca blend, just to remind you.)

  7. Becky / Nov 9 2011 9:33 pm

    Ok, another question. I’m getting somewhat close to end of attempt #3 to finish this chart, and I just want to make sure I’m clear on what comes next. So after I finish the lace chart, I knit another 21 rounds to incorporate those sleeve increases?

  8. Becky / Nov 10 2011 2:40 pm

    I’m making the small.

  9. Sabine / Nov 10 2011 6:47 pm

    Dear Kristen,

    I finished the body this evening! I was able to fit my sweater very well and I am very very happy with it. The only problem I had was to bind off all stitches with a “weak tension” so that I was still able “to put my sweater over the head”. Do you have a method you always use to avoid the problem of “strong” thread tension during the “bind off”?
    Now I will look if I can continue by myself with the sleeves. But in the mean time….cake and tea for me!!!!!!
    Thanks a lot for doing this knit along
    Kind regards Sabine “from Switzerland”

  10. KristenMakes / Nov 11 2011 6:06 am

    @Becky, thanks for clarifying! Actually its only 20, I had a wee mistake in the chart for the size S to knit one more row than necessary! Once you complete the last round in the chart (round 21) continue by knitting ALL stitches for 20 MORE rounds – during these rounds you will incorporate Sleeve Increase Rounds 6-10. So after the final sleeve increase row, knit ONE more round (round number 21) and then try it on. If the armhole isn’t deep enough, knit a few more rounds and try it on again. If you have any questions at the try-on stage, let me know 🙂 You’re doing great!!!!

  11. KristenMakes / Nov 11 2011 6:19 am

    Sabine, WELL DONE!!!! Cake & Tea indeed!

    Regarding your tension and just to clarify, did you mean that you had to bind off very LOOSELY and were asking for methods to avoid binding of TIGHTLY? Well if so, well done in giving it a go yourself. You are correct, in many cases you will need to bind off loosely as a tight bind off makes it difficult to try things on. You can try going UP a needle size or two – LOTS of knitters do that. Additionally there are some LOOSER bind off methods to try and see if you like (best to try on a swatch or a portion of your knitting first rather than the whole thing, just to see if it suits you). There are a few techniques here, & I suggest you look specifically at the Suspended Bind Off (the video is a bit quick and fuzzy, but it shows a looser bind off technique). Lastly, if you need it to be REALLY loose, try out Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. It’s a bit of a mouthful, but it is really stretchy! I love it on socks that I knit toe-up so that the cuff is really elasticated. There is a video for it here too. If you try it, just be sure to keep track of the K’s and the P’s, since the video is a K2 P2 rib, while ours is a K4 P2 rib. Let me know how it goes!

    xx KO

  12. Becky / Nov 26 2011 9:53 pm

    I’m finally caught up to this post! Which, of course, means I have a new question. I’m currently working on the round where the stitches for the sleeves get separated from the body. I knit it as tightly as I could, but there seems to be what will become a rather noticeable hole in the armpit area, where I have the sleeve stitches separated from the rest of the body, because the stitches are pulling away. I currently have it on a stitch holder. Is this normal? And how do i fix it?

  13. KristenMakes / Nov 27 2011 1:24 pm

    @Becky, As far as looseness, holes and gaping at the armhole, you are completely OK! I have that too, it is pretty much unavoidable. I will cover that when I get to the post about finishing. That is the stage in which we go from a hand-knitted garment to a professional-looking garment with just a bit of sewing and blocking! Sorry for the delay in the next step – its been a busy few weeks! We’ll be back on track shortly with a next post. Congratulations on getting so far!

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